Pioneering Mountaineer and Former REI CEO Jim Whittaker Dies at 97

April 10, 2026

Jim Whittaker, who in 1963 became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, died Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. He was 97. His death was confirmed by his family, including his son Leif Whittaker, who shared a statement with NPR.

Along with his world-famous outdoor pursuits, Whittaker also was REI’s first full-time employee, hired by the co-op in 1955, and eventually ran the company as the retailer’s second CEO, serving from 1971 to 1979, a period in which membership grew from nearly 250,000 to more than 900,000. Inside Outdoor